Villaste rõivaste õmblusvõtted keskaegsete arheoloogiliste leidude näitel / Stitches and seams of woollen garments based on medieval archaeological findings

Research on medieval textile fragments from Tallinn, Tartu, and Pärnu reveals standardized sewing techniques used in 13th–16th century Estonian towns. Analysis of 174 woollen fragments with 321 seams identified eight distinct stitch types—including running stitch, backstitch, hemming, overcast, and buttonhole stitch—and categorized seams into construction, hems, finishes, and special details like lapped seams (linked to stockings) and reinforced seams. Techniques, such as the 2–3 mm running stitch and up to 7 mm partial backstitch, show consistency across the period and align with European counterparts. The study employed visual observation, magnifying tools, and detailed documentation to trace stitches left by rotted threads or imprints, offering insights into medieval craftsmanship and consumption habits. Findings underscore the potential for reviving these techniques in modern textile production, valuing handicraft and emotional connections to materials.

Ratas, J. (2021). Villaste rõivaste õmblusvõtted keskaegsete arheoloogiliste leidude näitel / Stitches and seams of woollen garments based on medieval archaeological findings. Studia Vernacula, 13, 98–127. https://doi.org/10.12697/sv.2021.13.98-127