Wave forcing and morphological changes of New Caledonia lagoon islets: Insights on their possible relations

Research suggests that wave dynamics significantly influence the morphological changes of islets within the UNESCO-listed Lagoons of New Caledonia. The study identifies three dominant wave types affecting these islets: high-frequency lagoon-generated waves, low-frequency swells from the Tasman Sea, and infragravity waves. High-frequency waves primarily drive islet morphology during typical wind events year-round, while infragravity waves dominate during seasonal swell events, often generated by breaking low-frequency waves or propagated through reef channels. Topographic surveys revealed both seasonal changes and longer-term erosion patterns, hinting at a potential link between wave forcing and islet evolution. Though further validation is needed, this work provides critical insights into the complex interactions shaping these fragile ecosystems.

Aucan, J., Vendé-Leclerc, M., Dumas, P., & Bricquir, M. (2017). Wave forcing and morphological changes of New Caledonia lagoon islets: Insights on their possible relations. Comptes Rendus. Géoscience, 349(6-7), 248–259. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.crte.2017.09.003